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Travels through the Archipelago

 

I have had the chance recently to do some travelling through Indonesia and took the opportunity to visit farms in different areas and speak to the locals about the systems they use for growing produce.

Indonesia is a fascinating country. 250 000 000 people spread across a string of equatorial islands. It sounds like a hell of a lot of people, especially when I come from one of the most sparsely populated countries in the world. However, the people live very simply. They are largely poor by western standards and rely heavily on subsistence farming so although their population is large, the strain on resources is considerably less.

Many of the cultures in Indonesia were still living heavily off the forests but the past decades have seen a shift in Indonesia. Infrastructure, health, safety, agriculture and environmental responsibility are sadly lacking. Rubbish is a major problem and the general habit seems to be, just throw everything on the ground for someone else to pick up. Rivers are clogged with rubbish and the road sides are very messy. Environmental regulations, if they exist, are difficult to enforce and so called “National Parks” are still heavily farmed, harvested for timber and generally the concept of environmental protection is not at the forefront of discussion. With an average age of 28 years, Indonesia has a massive younger generation who have taken to technology and modern convenience very quickly. With a growing economy, Indonesia’s dwindling natural beauty and diverse rainforests, already severely degraded, are on target for annihilation.

My hope is that the youth of Indonesia understand the ecological significance of their lands and realise that no amount of instant payoff is worth what they are losing.

As is the case with most developing nations, bribes, pay offs, unregulated policy and law and greed are at their worse. Often times it is the foreign investors that purchase the lands and level them for palm oil, rice, mining and industry. More often than not it is the poor Indonesian farmer who loses out, not realising that the lands he has sold for a fine price, was his greatest and most irreplaceable asset.

Still, there is beauty everywhere. Rural Indonesia, once you overlook the rubbish, is very picturesque. Rice paddies, mosques (or temples) and bamboo huts are doted over a landscape backed by smoking volcanoes. The people are kind and generous, although quick to make a dollar, they have a sense of humour about it all. You really need to get off the tourist routes if you want to meet the locals and not one person I met could possibly understand why I had travelled to Indonesia to see farming!

We can learn so much from the Indonesian small holder. It is not uncommon for a family to have a plot of only a couple of acres but they will produce enough produce to feed themselves and sell the excess at the colourful local markets. Poultry is an important source of meat and eggs are essential to the farm. The general breed is a small jungle fowl creature, an ancestor of our hybridised birds but they are colourful and tough.

It was quite common for the small farm to have a couple of cows and in Bali, a pig or two. These cows were tethered to a shelter near the home and fed daily from locally harvested foliage. Leucearna is used extensively for animal feed and trees are kept in near topiary condition with the constant collection of green matter. Motorbikes, the standard family vehicle, were used to travel to local river beds and road sides to gather huge bundles of wild grass and foliage which was then fed to the animals. Never once did I see an animal being fed a purchased feed.

Permaculture is a way of life for these people. Permaculture wasn’t invented, it was merely discovered by the west who probably lost it centuries ago! Indonesian farms are all based on permaculture principles. A five acre plot will see small crops of fruits and vegetables, interspersed with useful plants and animals. Near the house is kept the cattle, a small garden growing useful things for the kitchen, often rabbits in cages, poultry and systems immediately needed for the processing of their produce.

One farm we visited in Bali, supplemented their income by collecting vast amounts of fallen frangipanis from the surrounding beaches and drying them for processing of essential oil.

There is no refrigeration so produce is collected daily and taken to local markets. It is always fresh.

The homes are simple, often made from woven bamboo, timber or rendered cement brick. It really is quite eye opening seeing how wonderfully simply these people live. Everything they have is useful and they take care of it. Nothing is wasted.

Everywhere I travelled, from Java to Kalimantan, their where small differences but the practices were similar. We visited low land tropical rainforest, dry islands and mountains that were cool and frosty. Such a wide range of climatic conditions means the production of a wide range of produce. Most of Indonesia is intensively farmed with every nook, cranny, steep slope and patch of dirt, producing something you can sell or eat. It needs to be with so many to feed.

East Java is supposedly the most picturesque and rural and its landscape is that of green rice paddies, fringed with coconut palms. Other crops grow here and there and the small streets wind continually in and out, from village to village. This land has no real highways and a journry of 200 km took us the beter part of 8 hours.

A typical picturesque East Javanese landscape.

Remant rainforests are used to shade coffee, cacoa and other shade loving tropical crops. This clever use of the forest is what might ultimately save it.

As we ascen the steep volcanoes, the landscape transitions from low lieing tropical rainforest to cool mountain cloud forests. There is a distinct chanfe in vegetation.

A fine field of onions thrives in the cool mountain climate

The cold, steep mountains are not what one would expect in an equatorial country. Altitude makes a big difference to the climate.

This lady tends to her small garden.

Lettuces and herbs were grown decoratively around the small hotel we stayed at and used extensivly by the cook.

The rich black volcanic soil is somthing I can only wish for!

Yogyakarta

Yogyakarta is a very small and pretty city, commonly described as the artistic capital of Java. Although Indonesia is buzzing with lively produce markets, I found the rabbit warren of markets in Yogyakarta particularly inspiring. Well known for batik and the ancient buddhist temples nearby, there are many great things you can purchase. We could smell something interesting (and there are a lot of very interesting smells at your typical Indonesian market!) and tracked down these pods, known as “stink beans” The lady selling them was kind enough to give me a taste and it was very pungent, acrid and bitter but the locals were buying them up readily. I have been trying to track down seeds but have had no luck as yet. This is the sort of interesting food items I love to discover in foreign markets

Kalimantan

We started our journey in Palangkaraya in Central Kalimantan where I was particularly interested in visiting the fledgling Sebangu National Park. Although Palangkaraya provided us with comfortable accommodation, our journey beyond that would be in local long houses and boats. The long house is an amazing construct with several families occupying a space built up on ironwood posts. They are constructed entirely of bamboo, timber and bark. Sleeping quarters are small and often one sleeps on the wooden floor or a bamboo mat. The longhouse serves as both home, community hall and hotel for tourists willing to be a little more intrepid. The longhouses are surprisingly cool and comfortable and we really enjoyed our hosts. These are really great people, many of whom still practice Kaharingan, the tribal religion of the Dayak which is what these people call themselves. It was great to watch my kids playing with the Dayak kids – kids know no boundaries where play is concerned and a soccer ball is the only language required.

 

These people still rely heavily on the forest for their foods and hunter gathering is used extensively to enrich their diet. Farming is interesting and very transitional. Apart from the plots in the village that grow cassava, sweet potato, chillies, banana, rambutan and much more, the locals have a very sensible relationship with the forest. Rubber trees have been integrated perfectly into the rainforest and provide a good source of income. Occasionally, a small patch of rainforest id cleared and used for the production of corn and rice but after a year or so, the patch is allowed to revegetate with the rainforest and another small patch is cleared. These people have sustained themselves sensibly for centuries and there is much we can learn from them. Depressingly, we had to drive for nearly 10 hours from Palangkaraya through the dreaded oil palm plantations before we reached the Sebangu River. Oil palms are a disease on the landscape and a far cry from the humble integrated farming systems employed by the traditional owners of this land.

Blocks of rubber latex, harvested direct from the trees are left in creek beds.

Life in a longhouse is simple, communal and comfortable. Food is prepared by many people and is delicious. Fresh fish, Cassava leaves, eggs and more.

Locally collected forest foods like this ear fungus are a real treat.

Traditional medicines play a huge role in these isolated communities. Coleus juice is used as a treatment for burns.

Collecting treats in the forest.

Kalimantan relies on the rives that penetrate deep inland, providing corridors through the dense rainforests to traffic goods. Timber houses and colourful boats are dotted along the rivers edges.

Raised vegetable beds, ready to plant.

These simple structures are used to start out seedlings before being planted into garden beds.

North West Bali

 

I was surprised to see grapes thriving in the slightly drier, north west of Bali. The family had about an acre of land, most of it under a grape trellis, tall enough to walk under. It provided protection for the fodder plants and leafy greens that grew beneath. A pig, 2 cows and a variety of chooks completed the picture. There were three generations living in a small wooden house. Around the house was kept clean and tidy, being swept twice a day with a handmade broom. Cassava, banana, papaya and lucearna grew around the house and beneath them were herbs like lemongrass and pandan. They were very excited to share their farm with us and we were proudly shown all sorts of fruits. Despite the pig and two cows, there was no smell of animal dung and I suspect it was cleaned up as readily as it was made and utilised in the garden.

My youngest son enjoyed getting lost in the gardens and paths under the grape vines

Food is harvested from roadsides and local forests to feed livestock. When ready, the sale of these beast will bring a substantial profit.

Vanilla Pandan leaves thrive in the shelter of these sweet grapes.

Coconuts, bananna, papaya and more protect baby corn seedlings and cassava helps support a fence for chilli seedlings.

East Java

East Java - Mount Bromo and Surrounds.

Bromo, like many of the other Indonesian volcanos, shoots upwards from an otherwise flat landscape, into the clouds and beyond. As we began our climb the rice paddies, bananas and corn gave way to cooler climate crops and within half an hour of ascending, I found myself in a completely different landscape. It was cold and damp, we needed jackets and beanies! Every conceivable slope was covered in neatly maintained rows of cabbages, onions, potatoes and carrots and the plots were fringed with conifers. The soil, rich and volcanic, was black and amongst the most fertile I have ever seen. I had soil envy! I am amazed how one can go from lowland tropics to an alpine landscape in such a short period and many of them do it daily, carrying stuff between markets.

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